A bustling city. Check out the Habana Vieja (Old Havana) area, which is an amazing neighbourhood of narrow streets with ornate but crumbling architecture.
All photographs Copyright Stephen Psallidas 1998/99.
I took my bike to Cuba in December 1998 for a 7-week trip. This article is a summary of what life and travelling are like in Cuba, rather than an 'account' of my trip. I also won't bother telling you too much about the tourist sights, you can get that from a guide book!
Cuba is changing quickly in the late 1990s,and I would recommend that you go sooner rather than later if you want to visit this fascinating country. This also means that some of the info below may become outdated quickly - but there are some updates from 2001 in green text.
Climate
Hot! (25-28 Centigrade at 13:00, when I was there over Christmas - of course these temperatures are 'in the shade'). The temperature is only a few degrees higher in summer than winter, however the summer is the rainy season, and as a cyclist it would definitely be best to go in the winter.
I would recommend starting long rides at sunrise (about 06:30 in the winter). Apart from the lower temperatures, there is more interesting street life and better light for photos too! I found that starting at 07:00 I had usually done 70-80 km by 12:00, when it starts getting really hot. I would slow down until 14:30, then pick up speed after that.
The prevailing wind in Cuba is from the North-east so you might like to bear this in mind when planning your route.
Geography
If anyone tells you that Cuba is flat, don't believe them! There are several mountain ranges, the two highest being in the east (Sierra Maestra) and centre (Sierra Escambray), although there are also lower ranges all over the country. In between the mountain ranges there are flat plains, so if you want you can avoid all the mountains. However, you would be missing out on some spectacular scenery and on meeting some great people! On the steepest hills the road changes from tarmac to concrete slabs, which provide better grip for your tyres.
The plains in between the mountainous bits are often quite boring, being mainly endless fields of sugar cane. But you can meet some nice campesinos (small farmers).
There are loads of great tropical beaches, the best that I found being at Playa Ancon near Trinidad and at Maria La Gorda on the western tip. Apparently some of the beaches outside Havana are good too.
Cycling by road
Travelling by road bike in Cuba is relatively easy - the roads are almost all tarmaced, and those which aren't are in the process (despite what your map may say about dirt roads). There are a lot of potholes, and occasional sections where the tarmac has broken up, but as long as you keep your eyes on the road you shouldn't have too many problems. Most roads have very little traffic as well, even some highways have only one vehicle every 5 minutes! Signposting is generally (but not always) good - on the other hand, there are usually hitch-hikers hanging around every junction, so ask them if you are unsure of where to turn off.
The main unpleasantness on the roads is the trucks (old Soviet Zil and Kamaz trucks in particular) which pump out huge clouds of the most disgusting black smoke you can imagine! I'm sure they burn a mixture of oil, rum and leftover cigars! But seriously, it's a health hazard and if you spot a truck coming towards you then I recommend pulling off the road and/or covering your mouth and nose if you can.
I'm not sure how much scope there would be for off-road biking in Cuba. There must be some pretty good possibilities, but I didn't really explore them as I was planning to ride on the roads for my whole trip.
Bike equipment
As Cuba is a poor country, new bike tyres, spares etc. are difficult to find. You can get inner tubes (30 pesos) and tyres (US$10-ish) in the main cities but they are usually of poor quality. Bottom brackets and derailleurs might be available in Havana but I doubt it. So... take everything you might need! My kit list is below.
The upside of this scarcity of spare parts is that Cubans are masters of repair: in every small village there is a 'ponchera' that not only fixes 'ponches' (the Cuban-Spanish word for 'punctures') but can vulcanize-patch split tyres and do all sorts of minor repairs. In the main towns there are dozens of poncheras that can carry out more major repairs - just ask around. These repairs are always very cheap (e.g. US$0.10 to vulcanize a split tyre, yes that's 10 cents) and seem to be quite well done.
You can pump up your tubes at any petrol (gas) station. However these are few and far between, so make sure you have your own good quality pump.
Narrow tyres are fine for the road surfaces, but not too narrow; I would recommend 1.3-1.4 inch tyres with a medium tread. Anything wider will slow you down, but narrower tyres may risk damage going over the many potholes and on those road sections where the tarmac has broken up.
I recommend that you wear a helmet!
I'm not an expert bike mechanic by any means, and you probably aren't either, but don't let this put you off! (But if you can't even mend a puncture then stay at home). I just made sure that my bike had a good service before I left home, this is probably all you need to do. The list of equipment I took was:
I resigned myself to the fact that I couldn't take everything and that if some thing major broke, I would have to continue my trip by other means of transport, or head back to Havana if I was close enough.
I had front-wheel and rear-rack waterproof panniers from Vaudé (a German company). I also took along a small 'day bag' (backpack) which I placed on the rear rack in between the panniers, although it was usually empty.
Getting your bike to Cuba by air is reasonably straightforward, any 'scheduled' carrier (I went with Air France) will take it for free, although it will be included in your 20kg or 25kg allowance. 'Charter' airlines will probably also take bikes, but may charge an extra fee. You can pack your bike in a proper 'bike box', but I don't think it's worth it because (a) boxes are expensive, (b) you can't ride your bike to the airport in a box, and (c) what do you do with the box when you arrive at your destination?? I just check my bike in with the following changes:
[UPDATE: Air France are now unhappy to take bicycles on the Paris-Havana route due to high levels of theft]
Other forms of transport
Cuba has the only train system in the Caribbean, and it isn't too bad (by the standards of underdeveloped countries anyway), and you can take your bike on any train that has a luggage car. Unfortunately not every train has a luggage car, but just ask at the station for the 'coche de equipaje' and they will tell you. The most useful train is the daily overnight 'express' between Havana and Santiago, which you can also use to travel between intermediate points, although this will involve leaving or arriving at some godawful time! The other most useful service is that between Havana and Pinar del Rio, which leaves at 22:00 and takes 6 or 7 hours, returning around 09:00. Due to lack of fuel and maintenance, the trains are usually late, often by several hours. Ticket prices are more expensive than you might expect as they use the 'official' exchange rate of 1 US to 1 Cuban peso, and also automatically put foreigners in first class (although you should be able to ask for 2nd class - about 25% cheaper and the only difference being less comfy seats). The first-class fare from Havana to Santiago is about US$40, to Santa Clara US$10. Bikes are also quite expensive at around US$15 Havana-Santiago.
You can also travel by truck, in fact this is often the only transport if you are travelling independently in some of the more remote areas. Basically you just stand in the back of a big crowded truck as far as your destination. Not very comfortable, but fares are cheap, you will only pay 10 or 20 pesos for a ride of several hours although the drivers will try and screw some US dollars out of you. Cubans put their bikes in these trucks too, but if you have a nice bike with several pannier bags and are travelling alone, you might have some problems with security.
Bus travel is possible but I wouldn't really recommend it - it costs the same as the train but is a lot less comfortable, on the 'public' buses anyway. Also it can be difficult to get a bicycle on a bus without it being damaged. However, some 'tourist' buses have recently started up which are much more comfortable (and not that much more expensive), but I'm not sure whether you can take bikes on them. [UPDATE 2001: Viazul buses apparently now travel between the main tourist towns, and will happily take bikes in the luggage compartment.]
Of course, you can travel around by car or taxi. Car hire is not cheap, an open-topped jeep cost about US$80 a day in 1999 (plus petrol, mileage, insurance etc.) although with several people it might be OK. Official tourist taxis cost about US$0.50 per km for short runs. 'Private taxis' (i.e. private owners who are moonlighting by doing trips for foreigners) will take you anywhere, but haggle over the price! In 1999 it cost around US$25 from Varadero to Havana, or US$30 from Havana to Pinar del Rio in a private taxi, and the airport run in Havana costs around US$10. Be aware though that in early January 1999 Fidel Castro outlawed private taxis which did not pay (high) government taxes, and so you might find that owners are unwilling to take you, or are very nervous while driving you around. Because of the way things work in Cuba, this policy might now have changed completely!!
Finally, there are a lot of horses in Cuba, which the locals occasionally use for medium-distance transport. If you can ride and speak Spanish you might be able to hire a horse for a few days!
Money
The money system in Cuba is very confusing, as they have not one, not two but three types of money in circulation. Firstly there is 'moneda nacional' or MN (national money), called pesos: there are notes of 1, 3, 5, 10, 20 and 50 pesos, and coins of 5, 10 and 20 centavos and 1 and 3 pesos. Pesos used to be the only currency until 1993, when the government was forced to allow US dollars due to the economic crisis caused by the collapse of the Soviet Union.
The second currency is US dollars, which come in the usual paper notes. However, US coins (e.g. 10¢ dimes) are uncommon.
Thirdly, because the government wants to keep the 'real' dollar notes to buy things abroad, it has issued a replacement note for each real one that it takes out of circulation. These notes are called convertible pesos and are exactly equal to US dollars. The notes can be recognised because they are bright and new, coming in denominations of 1, 3, 5, and 10. The government has also issued 'convertible' coins, in 5, 10, 25 and 50 cent denominations, which can be distinguished from moneda nacional because they are heavier and shinier. The complication is that there are also some of the older coins still in circulation which were issued (bizzarely) by the national tourist organisation in the 1980s, and which bear the logo 'INTUR' - these coins are pretty low quality, resembling moneda nacional coins, but don't confuse them because they are worth 20 times as much (see below). Of course, convertible pesos cannot be used outside Cuba so make sure you have none left when you leave!
As a final confusion, the word 'peso' is often used to refer to US dollars as well as to Cuban pesos, and the '$' sign is also used for both! So make sure you use the phrases 'moneda nacional' (Cuban pesos) and 'divisas' (US dollars) if you are unsure. In this document, I use the '$' sign exclusively for US dollars.
The 'street' exchange rate was approximately US$1=20 pesos in early 1999 [UPDATE: US$1=26 pesos, November 2001]. This rate can be obtained either at the government-run Casas de Cambio which exist in major towns, or alternatively from the unofficial moneychangers who hang around outside dollar stores or from the owner of your accomodation. While unofficial exchanges are illegal, they are generally tolerated and you should have no problem as long as you are discreet. Just make sure you count all the pesos carefully before you hand over your dollars!
The 'official' exchange rate is still fixed by the government at the wildly unrealistic US$1=1 peso. While you can ignore this rate for actually changing money, some state-run organisations (particularly railways and some hotels) use it to calculate prices - in other words, if Cubans pay 6 pesos you pay 6 dollars!
Unless you are lucky enough to be officially staying in Cuba for a while (as a student etc), and have a residence permit, most of the money you spend in Cuba will be US dollars - in fact, most tourists never see pesos, and hustlers in the street will try to sell you peso notes as souvenirs! You will pay in dollars for accomodation, tourist restaurants, train, taxi and bus travel, clothing, souvenirs, most alcohol, postcards and stamps, museum entrance fees, phone calls using prepaid cards, and food from dollar stores and bakeries. Dollar stores sell mainly imported goods ranging from stereos and baseball caps to beer and pasta - there are numerous dollar stores in every city, and smaller outlets with a more restricted range in the country towns. Examples of prices are $0.60 (can of cola or loaf of bread), $0.25 (toilet roll), $1.50 (big bar of chocolate), $0.80 (can of nice beer or large bottle of mineral water), $3 (baseball cap).
You will be able to use pesos to buy street food, and for food from farmers' markets. You can also spend them on local buses and horse-drawn taxis, and for telephone calls from the older payphones intended for Cubans (if you find one that is working). Some state-run restaurants also accept payments in pesos from foreigners, if you find one then you will only pay about 5 pesos for a meal. You can also drink rum and Cuban beer in local bars for a few pesos.
Of course, it is practically impossible to change pesos back into US dollars. So don't change more than US$10 into pesos at a time or you may end up stuck with too much!
If you collect bank notes, the older peso notes have interesting revolutionary scenes on the reverse side, and feature the slogan 'Cuba, territorio libre de America' on the front. If you are into Ché Guevara, all the '3' notes and coins in Cuba have pictures of him. The old red 3-peso notes from 1983 are quite rare now but they have the best images of Ché in my opinion.
Economy and Politics
Cubans who work for the state (i.e. most people) earn from 100 (street cleaner) to 300 (doctor) pesos per month - that's $5 to $15.
The poor economic situation is caused mainly by the collapse of the European socialist states, on which Cuba depended far too much for its own good until 1989, although by the late 1990s the corner has been turned and the economy is slowly improving again. An over-emphasis on sugar production is the main weakness of the economy, but when I was there there were few signs that the central planners had any intentions of diversifing into any other crops - though there were a few experiments with other cash crops destined for export markets.
After opening up the economy to US dollars, the government also legalised small privately-run businesses operating for personal profit - such as 'paladar' restaurants (see below), street food stalls, and private room accomodation. However, these businesses are not allowed to grow above a certain size, and are heavily taxed. Nevertheless, they have contributed to the slow revitalisation of the economy after the crisis of the early 1990s. It's interesting to note that most of the larger 'private' businesses such as the chains of dollar stores, tourism enterprises and fast-food restaurants are actually owned and run by various branches (or individual members) of the government, and in particular the armed forces - and they get quite rich on it.
Needless to say, most Cubans find dollar stores either expensive or totally unaffordable, and they subsist in the peso economy. This means getting food (practically free) from the government food outlets with the ration book issued to every family. Unfortunately, the ration is not enough to live on, and there are often food shortages anyway (particularly of meat), despite donations of food by other socialist countries such as Vietnam. Clothes, shoes, books and basic household items can be bought in government stores, although clothes in particular are expensive, e.g. 200 pesos for a pair of cheap jeans. Many other goods are unobtainable for pesos. The net result of all this is that most people need another source of income to survive - usually from relatives in the USA who send dollars home, or of course trying to get some from tourists! The few people (maybe 10% of the population) who have no access to dollars at all are in a pretty bad situation.
[START OF POLITICAL RANT]
One of the reasons that the economic situation is currently still bad for ordinary Cubans is the general inefficiency of the state-controlled economy, and the restrictions imposed on enterprise by the government (described elsewhere).
But another main reason is the embargo imposed by the USA, which has not only ceased all trade with Cuba for almost 40 years, but has passed 'laws' (I use quotes because these are illegal under every international convention in the book) which aim to prevent other countries trading with Cuba too. This harsh treatment is partially because Cuba is a 'Communist' country, and such an offence to the American Way of Life less than 100 km from its shores cannot be tolerated. However, the main reason is that many rich people who fled Cuba after the socialist revolution in 1959 have settled in Miami, from where they mount hysterical hate campaigns against Castro. For example, they made bomb threats against a Miami radio station that dared to play music by a Cuban-American musician who once shook hands with another musician who once wrote some songs supporting the Revolution. These people, although relatively small in numbers, have disproportionate influence in Florida, a key state in US political terms (as shown in the 2000 Presidential election). They also make large donations to both major US political parties. The blockade has continued despite 6 consecutive United Nations votes which demanded its removal by an overwhelming majority - hypocritically, the US then uses United Nations resolutions as its legal pretext to bomb the hell out of Iraq (whilst continuing to refuse to pay its enormous backlog of contributions to the UN). The blockade means that the Cuban government (not exactly the richest in the world) has to pay far more than it would normally to ship goods to and from other trading partners, and it has led to severe shortages of medicines and medical equipment in particular - although the EU has donated some medical resources in its humanitarian aid programmes. Some 'cosmetic' relaxation of a few US restrictions in 1999, such as allowing various cultural and sporting exchanges, actually hides a stepping-up of the real restrictions - the American government is currently going for broke in its attempt to destroy the revolutionary Cuban government.
However, while it is true that American policy towards Cuba is consistently spiteful and ultimately illogical, the Cuban government heavily cracks down on dissidence and free speech, as well as on homosexuals and even members of other religions. There are many executions, for example of some hijackers in 2003, despite them not harming any of their captives. The political restrictions would be understandable, although never excusable, in the face of the relentless onslaught by the USA, but the top government officials are also widely believed to be creaming off large amounts of money for themselves. Certainly, it's true that most of the 'flashy' new breed of businessmen I met in their BMWs were linked to the government in one way or another. This is very disappointing, and takes the shine off many of the genuine achievements of the Revolution.
The fact is that Cuba is a one-party dictatorship which lurches from relative benignness to heavy-handed oppression. However, there are many genuinely impressive things have been achieved by the Castro government, particularly in the medical, academic, social and and environmental fields. And political corruption and crackdowns on dissidence certainly aren't restricted to Cuba. The USA (or the UK, where I live) have no lessons to teach the world about political purity...
[END OF POLITICAL RANT]
There are several types of accomodation in Cuba:
Hotels
These range from hotels of an international standard in the major tourist resorts, to more basic establishments elsewhere. However, if you pay in dollars you should be guaranteed your own bathroom with hot water. Almost all rooms have a double bed rather than two singles, and there are discounts for single occupancy. Prices range from $15 (single) for a basic hotel to $50 or $60 in an international hotel. However, in the latter case there is often a lot included in the price - I stayed in one of the best hotels in Cuba for one night for $55 (single), which included a buffet breakfast and dinner, unlimited alcoholic drinks and a trip to a coral cay with lunch thrown in! Not bad really! The more basic hotels are patronised by Cubans (paying at the 1:1 rate) who regrettably are often obnoxiously drunk.
In addition to dollar-charging hotels, there are some very basic places (maybe not very clean, shared bathrooms etc.) which normally accept only a Cuban clientele, paying in pesos, e.g. 10-20 pesos. You may not be accepted at these hotels, and if you are you may pay at the 1:1 rate (i.e. 10-20 dollars) which is poor value for money. However, occasionally peso hotels will accept foreigners and allow them to pay in pesos - just ask!
Casas particulares
'Casa particular' is Spanish for 'private house' and this is the best way to see Cuba. Basically, you pay for a room in someone's house and usually share meals with the family. All rooms have a double bed, but only a few have a private bathroom; most claim to have hot water but few do. Privacy can be limited, and many owners speak little or no English. On the positive side, casas are usually quite clean, they are cheaper than hotels, and it is a great way to meet 'real' Cubans (albeit relatively well-off from your dollars), make contacts, eat real Cuban food and improve your Spanish.
Casas can be found in all the main tourist areas and along tourist routes - there are hundreds in Havana but only half a dozen in Bayamo for example - but even in the smallest town there will usually be someone willing to rent you a room. Legal casas can be recognised by the blue triangle logo on the front door. You can get addresses from other tourists or ask around - if a casa is full it will often send you to another place. Also be aware that you will be hassled by young men in most city centres, wanting to take you to various casas, from which they will receive $3 a night in commission - this will be added to your bill, so unless you are really stuck then say 'No gracias' to the touts! Commission will not be charged if a casa has sent you somewhere else because they are full.
Casas range in price from $15 to $20 for two people ($10-$15 single), depending on your bargaining skills! In Havana the prices range from $20 to $30 for two ($20-25 single). Make sure you see the room and bathroom before you agree to take a room. Meals usually cost extra, around $2-3 for breakfast and $5-$6 for an evening meal - just tell the owner what you want and they'll cook it for you! Meals are usually good and very filling. If you are a vegetarian like me you might be able to get meals cheaper, as meat is very expensive in Cuba.
Legal casas have to pay a flat-rate tax of $100-$130 per room per month, even if the room is totally empty all month. There are also some illegal casas, which charge a couple of dollars less per night - if you are discovered by the police you will simply be thrown out, but the owner will have to pay a huge $1500 fine. It's up to you whether you stay in these places, remember the schools and hospitals in Cuba need the tax money!
Campismos
'Campismo Popular's can be found in many pleasant areas of Cuba. Despite the name, they are not campsites but groups of huts called 'cabanas', aimed mainly at Cubans although they will take foreigners. The huts are basic but usually clean enough and with their own bathrooms. Prices are around the $5-6 mark for foreigners. There is normally a basic restaurant or foodstore on the site. Officially you are supposed to make reservations through the Campismo Popular office in the capital of the relevant province, but in practice you shouldn't find a problem just turning up.
Wild camping and homestays
I was told while in Cuba that it is perfectly legal to camp anywhere if you bring your own tent. Make sure you are out of sight for security reasons, and take all your rubbish/trash away with you (of course).
Alternatively, you could try asking whether you can pitch up your tent on the many small farms by the roadside in country regions. The 'campesinos' (small farmers) will probably be happy to see you, and in fact I spent two interesting nights as the guests of people I had met on the road. It would be nice if you left a few dollars for them (or a bottle of rum, as I did!).
Food and drink
As mentioned above, you can get basic food and drink at any dollar store, including large and small bottles of mineral water ($0.80 and $0.40 - it can be difficult to find the 'still' water, most of it seems to be fizzy which I don't like) and bars of chocolate ($0.80 to $1.50). Some of the stores also have packets of sultanas ($1.75) which are great for cycling! Along the highways, most towns and villages have a dollar store of some description. [UPDATE: prices in late 2001 have dropped slightly on these].
In the street and on the highways you can buy food and drink for pesos, this is pretty cheap and I only once got any stomach problems, although I cannot guarantee the same for your stomach! Every small village has at least one stall selling 'refrescos' (fruit juice made from powder) or 'batidos' (milkshakes), and usually some food although this might only be 'frituras' (fried dough balls) or 'galletas con mayonesa' (crackers with mayonnaise, best avoided) - you can also get chocolate/coconut cakes and other sweets. Refrescos in state-run cafeterias usually cost 30 centavos, at private stalls 1 peso. A batido costs from 1 to 3 pesos and a cheese pizza 3-7 pesos. Cuban icecreams are delicious!
You can eat well at 'paladares', these are the new breed of private-enterprise restaurants which are basically a few tables in someone's living room! You will pay anywhere from $4 to $10 a person depending on what you eat. You can get everything in a paladar, including beef and lobster which are actually illegal (especially lobster). Just ask around for a good place. [UPDATE: apparently many paladares have now closed due to heavy taxes]
You can also eat in your casa particular as explained above - these meals are usually just as good as at a paladar, but cost about 30-50% less.
You can buy fresh fruit and vegetables from farmers' markets in the main towns (for pesos), just ask for the 'mercado agropecuario', but make sure you get the privately-run one because the state-run one will probably be empty.
If you are a vegetarian like me you will find people amazed. It is almost unheard of among Cubans, and those rare Cuban veggies are doing it exclusively for religious reasons or because they have intestinal problems - having said that, shortages in the peso economy mean that many Cubans rarely actually eat meat anyway! It is not difficult to eat vegetarian food, although you will soon get bored with 'congri' (rice and beans), tortillas (omelettes) and 'ensaladas' (salads). You can also try 'yuca' (a stringy root) and 'malanga' (something like a potato), both boiled.
There is not as much fruit in Cuba as you might expect, because of course it is all seasonal and there are not 7000 varieties of wastefully-imported fruits like in Europe... In the winter all you can find easily are bananas and oranges, though I also ate a few papayas and pineapples. You can get expensive imported apples in Havana.
The national alcoholic drink is of course 'ron' (rum), and you can buy shots of rum in local bars for a couple of pesos. A full bottle of nice Havana Club rum costs $3-$4, although you can get the cheap stuff that most Cubans drink for 10 pesos a bottle or so. Beer comes in two varieties: local beer (2 or 3 pesos), available in peso bars and restaurants, but it doesn't taste that great, or the newer lagers such as Cristal or Hatuey ($0.60 in a shop, $1 in a bar) which are pretty good.
You may be recommended to avoid water from the tap ('faucet' for my American readers), but I drank it all over Cuba (mainly in the refrescos and batidos I drank) and never had a problem. However, the tap water is not up to European standards of cleanliness, and I met some people who had been sick from drinking it.
Health
Cuba is a very healthy country, and the government has made great strides since the Revolution in 1959, wiping out malaria and diptheria for example. As long as you are in good shape you should have no problems whatsoever health-wise - just take the usual precautions like making sure your tetanus and polio jabs are up to date. If you are worried, you could also have hepatitis jabs too, but you probably don't need them. Consult your doctor for advice.
If you do become sick, Cuba has one of the world's most extensive public health systems: every village has a doctor, and larger towns always have a 'policlinico' (cottage hospital) or at least a pharmacy. If you need one (I never did), a doctor's consultation will cost you about $20 as a foreigner - Cubans don't pay. Unfortunately, the US embargo (see above) has caused severe shortages of medicines in the last few years, and there is a lack of many things that Europeans take for granted, like aspirin and disinfectants. Although it is usually possible to buy basic medicines over the counter in pharmacies for a minimal cost, it would be wise to take along a medical kit of your own; this will also mean you are not a burden on the Cuban health system. When you depart Cuba, please leave your medicines behind! Just give them to any doctor or pharmacy, they will be greatly appreciated.
The major cities have major hospitals, although only Havana has ones of an international standard. In some of the main tourist towns (e.g. Trinidad), there are also clinics aimed specifically at dollar-paying foreigners, with English-speaking staff etc. You will probably pay around $30 or $40 for a doctor's consultation here, but should bypass any shortages of medicines as they will have been specially imported. If you have any serious problems, or don't speak any Spanish at all, try these clinics.
Crime and Security
I am told that before the 1990s crime was virtually unknown. However, once dollars were legalised in 1993, this started to create inequalities in society, and crime is on the increase. On the other hand, crime is a lot less frequent than in most major European cities and certainly less than in US cities. And violent crime is still very rare.
The main problem you will come across is people hassling you for money, or to be paid guides, or various other scams. These scams are usually fairly straightforward and have not yet reached the level of sophistication of bigger tourist destinations. All you need say is 'no gracias' (no thanks), and if they persist 'deja me' (pronounced 'DE-hah meh', leave me alone). If you feel threatened in any way, tell your hasslers that you will call the 'policia' and they will instantly disappear. The police are quite feared in Cuba, and certainly in Havana there is a policeman standing on most street corners that you can call. The downside is that the police are feared for a reason, and unfortunately they will always believe a tourist over a Cuban - this leaves the way open for exploitation by dishonest foreigners.
If you are a male, sometimes you may also be approached by prostitutes or pimps. The police have crackdowns every so often - when I was there, they were in 'crackdown mode' so I didn't get too much hassle. Again, just say 'no gracias' or 'no quiero' ('no kee-EH-roh', I don't want).
As in any country, you may also encounter petty theft as I did - my bike helmet was stolen after I left it on a shop counter for a couple of minutes. Don't leave things lying around on a beach, and don't leave your bike unlocked when you are away from it.
Muggings are rare but not unheard of, they seem to happen mainly in Havana - just keep your wits about you. Walking around the streets of Old Havana after dark is generally OK, I never had any problems anyway. The heavy police presence is quite reassuring. You may hear of the murder of two Italian 'tourists' in late 1998, however this is believed to have involved major drug deals etc.
I recommend an unobtrusive moneybelt for carrying your cash and valuables. Don't walk around with massive gold watches or anything silly like that. Leave a photocopy of your passport and airline ticket in your hotel room, or in your backpack/panniers if you are on the move. And that should be all you need to do.
Don't let any of this put you off, the vast majority of Cubans are extremely honest, friendly and generous!
Language
Few Cubans outside the tourist resorts speak anything other than Spanish - although this will no doubt change over the next few years as more tourists arrive. You will find your trip much easier if you make the effort to learn a few words of Spanish - it's one of the easiest languages to learn. A small phrasebook will not weigh you down too much and is a valuable asset. People always appreciate even a basic effort at speaking their language.
Note that if you already speak Castilian (European) Spanish, Latin American Spanish is not exactly the same! There are some Cuban vocabulary words which don't appear in Castilian Spanish, and vice versa. Also, the accent is quite different in Cuba, and people speak a lot faster. The 'S's and 'D's tend to get partially or completely dropped, for example the word ustedes ('you' plural) is often pronounced ute'e - confusing! Having said all that, if you just speak slow, clear Spanish you will always be understood.
If you speak Russian, you may find that a surprising number of older people speak it; quite a lot of people studied at Soviet and Eastern European universities in the sixties and seventies.
Visas
All visitors require a visa to enter Cuba, this is easily obtained from your nearest embassy as long as you have a return ticket and your first 3 nights' accomodation booked (with a written confirmation, by letter, fax or e-mail). A casa particular booking is fine, but obviously it must be a 'legal' one. If you don't book this accomodation you will get hassled at the airport!
The visa lasts for a month but can be renewed for further months at the local Immigration Offices in most Cuban cities ($25 each time). I renewed my visa in Trinidad with no problems. If you stay more than 3 months, the authorities might start getting suspicious.
US visitors are very welcome in Cuba, and will find no problems from either the authorities or ordinary Cubans. However, they will have to travel via a third country (e.g. Mexico or Bahamas) and get their Cuban visa in that country, in order to avoid problems with their own government. There are some travel agencies which arrange this on an 'unofficial' basis.
Maps
I bought the Roger Lascelles 1:1,250,000 road map of Cuba in the UK, but I cannot completely recommend it, as it is somewhat outdated, and too large a scale to show many small roads. Instead try and get hold of some German maps, or any one that is relatively recent. Alternatively, wait until you get to Cuba and buy the good maps that they sell in the airport in Havana - however I have not seen these anywhere else in Cuba. [UPDATE: 'Guía de Carreteras' is a good road map published in 1999, widely available for $6 from dollar stores in Cuba]
Small scale maps of areas in Cuba (e.g. the Sierra Maestra mountains) seem practically impossible to find, although apparently you can get some old Soviet aerial maps from Stanfords in London if you give them about 2 months' notice.
Internet access
Web access is limited for ordinary Cubans, as the government is presumably not keen to let them see critical information. The only place where you can easily access the Web is in Havana at the School of Science. This can be found in the Capitolio building, the entrance can be seen to the left of the main stairs. It costs $5 an hour and you need to show your passport to prove you are a foreigner. [UPDATE: there are now Internet phone booths in major cities, you can buy a scratchcard which costs $15 for 5 hours - but you still need your passport.]
E-mail access is more common, especially among professionals and academics. When you meet a Cuban professional person, ask whether they have e-mail access at work and whether you can use it - this worked for me. Just don't write anything critical of the Cuban government in your e-mail as there is a chance you could be getting your friend in trouble.
Below is information about the route I followed (click here for a MAP - thanks to Lonely Planet!). The total distance I covered was 1800 km, although this included about 250 km of 'day trips' - I did around 1550 km in 15 days of long-distance cycling (spread over 49 days total). I have included some accommodation details, but only mentioning those casas that were particularly good. If you stay at any of these places, please tell them you were sent by Stephen Psallidas, 'el ciclista inglés' [the English cyclist]!!
Havana
A bustling city. Check out the Habana Vieja (Old Havana) area, which is an amazing neighbourhood of narrow streets with ornate but crumbling architecture.
If you are crossing to the forts on the east side of the harbour, take the ferry to Casablanca which is much faster than waiting for the cycle bus through the tunnel, or cycling all the way round.
There are many cycle lanes in Havana, indicated by the yellow concrete blobs, and amazingly the car drivers seem to respect them! Also watch out for the one-way system, you will get pulled up by a policeman here (and elsewhere in Cuba) if you cycle the wrong way!
There are a lot of police on the streets in Habana Vieja so you should feel safe wandering the streets, even at night. However the same cannot always be said of other areas of Havana - keep your eyes peeled, especially at night. I had my baseball cap snatched off my head by a passing cyclist when walking at night in Centro Habana.
Bayamo
A pleasant enough place but not much to do. Nice multicoloured houses.
The road from Bayamo up to Bartolome Maso in the western Sierra Maestra is good, I recommend going via Bueycito rather than via Yara, but be aware that the road from Buey Arriba to B.Maso (marked on my map) does not exist.
Western Sierra Maestra mountains
You can base yourself at Villa Santo Domingo, 24 km south of Bartolome Maso. The first 17 km are OK but the last 7 km are ridiculously steep, and I defy you to cycle the whole thing fully laden! The scenery is spectacular though. VSD has an excellent little hotel in a beautiful location ($14 single).
You can also visit Fidel's revolutionary hideout in the hills above VSD, this costs about $8 per person including a guide (obligatory). It's well worth the 4-hour trip, but the road up into the mountains is even steeper than the road to VSD! You can also hike eastwards into the mountains as far as Palma Mocha, but when I was there in December 1998 it was not possible to hike all the way through to the coast via Pico Turquino without permission from the Ministry of Science in Havana, which is difficult to obtain. However, there were rumours that this restriction was due to be relaxed in 1999.
To get through to the south coast, you need to backtrack to B.Maso, and then you can go all the way round via Manzanillo - this is quite flat but at 150 km is a long way. Alternatively, I would recommend going through the mountains via Mercedes and San Lorenzo to Marea del Portillo: a much shorter route, but not to be undertaken lightly. The road is good but steep as far as San Lorenzo; it then starts to deteriorate although there are some reasonable concrete sections. At the 50 km mark, just past La Habanita, the tarmac ends and the last 20 km are on a dirt road which is in a poor condition. There are a lot of hills as well, including a very steep descent down the last couple of km into Marea del Portillo. On the plus side, it's quite an exciting route, and interesting to see all the small isolated villages in the mountains. Just make sure you take enough water (you can also buy some basic refreshments at San Lorenzo), and set off early because the 70 km took me 8 hours in total, even considering that some friends had taken 3 of my 4 panniers through to Marea by car! From some works going on at the side of the dirt road, it looks as if they will be trying to tarmac it fairly soon. [UPDATE: in late 2001, this road was still not tarmaced].
Marea del Portillo and the south coast
Marea is a pleasant place if you like beach resorts, but there's not much else to do. There are only 3 places to stay: 2 posh hotels, the Marea del Portillo and the Farallon del Caribe (I stayed in the latter for one night - see 'Hotels' section), and the Punta de Piedra hotel ($20 single) which had good enough rooms, but I was accosted by an unpleasant drunken Cuban who was hassling me for beers.
The route eastwards from Marea is quite spectacular, winding along the coast with the mountains on the other side. There are a few hills but it's not too bad. Just be aware that between Marea and Chivirico there is nothing but two or three small villages - luckily you can buy refrescos at all of them, but I'm not sure about food. There is also a campismo on the beach at La Mula.
Chivirico is 100 km east of Marea and is a reasonable sized place with a few restaurants, 2 posh hotels and the Motel Guamá. Do not stay at the Guamá without checking personally that it has water and electricity - both were lacking when I stayed, but I only discovered this after paying! There were also several drunken Cuban guests who would have been threatening if I were a single woman. This hotel and the Punta de Piedra were the only places where I had the slightest trouble from Cubans.
The road east from Chivirico to Santiago (70 km) is less interesting but flatter; you are likely to be cycling into the prevailing North-East wind. There is apparently a very nice waterfall at Playa Verde about 20 km west of Santiago.
Santiago de Cuba
Santiago, Cuba's second city, is a contrast to Havana, having a much smaller city centre and being more relaxed. I recommend visiting the Morro castle at the harbour mouth (7 km from the centre) - but make sure you don't miss Cayo Granma, the little island just inside the harbour, it's a fantastic place to explore for a couple of hours! The ferry to Cayo Granma (5 mins, 10 centavos) leaves from a small dock 5 km from town, turn right at the first major crossroads after getting out of the urban area. You can then continue to the castle on the same road.
You can also do a day trip to the cathedral at Cobre (40 km round trip) but it's nothing great really, just a fairly ordinary cathedral although in a nice location. There are some interesting 'modern' religious offerings inside.
I recommend staying at Manolito Tur's casa:
Calle Corona #555 (Just one block north-west of the main square)
Santiago
Tel. 52624
I paid $15 single there, including breakfast and dinner! However I suspect that if you eat meat it will be more like $18-19.
Santiago to Guantánamo!['Guantanamera' [Real Audio G2]](speaker.gif)
WARNING - your map may show a road along the coast from Santiago via Siboney to Caimanera, near Guantánamo. I wanted to take this route as it looked interesting, but I was advised that it is closed to foreigners past Parque Baconao, due to the road passing near the US Naval Base. I didn't want to check this as I would have had a 100-km wasted journey if it was true! I took the main road through the mountains to the north instead. [UPDATE: I'm sure that with a load of Afghan and Iraqi prisoners now held indefinitely by the Americans at Guantánamo, this road will be even more off-limits!]
Santiago to Guantánamo is a relatively straightforward 100 km. However, take care to find the autopista correctly when leaving Santiago towards the north, as it is poorly signposted and it's easy to get lost (like I did). An alternative to the autopista is to take a smaller road just to the east of it which rejoins the main road at a place called El Cristo. I did this, but it is difficult to navigate with only a large-scale map - ask locals for directions.
Once you turn off the autopista onto the Carretera Central, a few km short of El Cristo, it is just straight ahead all the way, mostly downhill (payback for the uphill to El Cristo). About 20 km before Gtmo. the Carretera joins another massive autopista which is frighteningly empty of traffic, it's like there has been a holocaust.
I stayed in the Hotel Guantánamo on the northern edge of town ($22 single), but although the room was fine, the swimming pool was dirty and ruined by deafening music and dozens of screaming kids around it. I would recommend finding a casa particular in town. Also I think it would be worth booking a trip to the Mirador Malone which overlooks the US naval base 40 km outside town: this can be arranged at the Hotel Gtmo., you need a permit ($10 each) plus a taxi ($30 for the car, split by however many people are in it). I was by myself so it was expensive and I didn't do it, but I later wished I had. If you get the permit just by itself, you could try to stop off on the way to Baracoa by bicycle, but I'm not sure if the security guards would allow this. Also be aware that the mirador is 15 km from the main road so it is a 30-km detour.
Guantánamo to Baracoa
This is a very long day (156 km) over some bastard mountains, so it may better to split in two, although there is no major town to stop at overnight, just a couple of large villages. I set off at 05:00 and didn't get in to Baracoa until 17:00, cycling non-stop - I was knackered (that's 'pooped' to my American readers)!
The road as far as Cajobabo is pretty flat but not that interesting. There is a campismo 40 km east of Gtmo., and two villages, San Antonio and Imías where you can buy refreshments and could probably find accomodation.
After Cajobabo (100 km from G.) you start the long haul over 'La Farola', a road notorious throughout Cuba for its steepness - it was only built in the 1960s, before this Baracoa was inaccessible by vehicle from the south. The 60-odd km took me about 5 hours, it's very tiring but there are spectacular views. There is a 'mirador' (viewpoint) at the highest point, and (hallelujah!) a cafeteria with cold drinks, but don't relax too much because there are still several more climbs before you start the long roll down into Baracoa.
Baracoa
This was my promised land but it didn't really live up to its promise - maybe I had been expecting too much. It's nice enough though and very relaxed, I think what put me off is that there are a lot of European (particularly Italian) sex tourists there, in fact I don't think I met any single tourists who weren't there for the 'chicas' - a bit depressing if you're not really into that sort of thing and are by yourself.
A good day-trip is out to the Boca de Yumuri, or mouth of the Yumuri river, 27 km east of town. There you can venture up the crystal-clear river (a short hop by boat then walking) which is a great trip - if you get there early you can go up to a small village 7 km from the river mouth. You can also press on past BdY all the way to the 
eastern tip of Cuba at Cabo Maisí, although this is at least another 25 km with not much in the way of refreshment (so I didn't do it). Back from BdY towards Baracoa there are numerous deserted beaches good for a swim.
You can also climb the Yunque, the very obvious flat-topped mountain north of town said to be Columbus' first sight of the New World in 1492. Head out to the Campismo about 12 km from town, first on the highway then on a dirt road - at the campismo you can hire a guide to take you up ($10 or so), you will get lost if you don't. The path is not too difficult, but steep towards the top.
I can recommend the following casa:
Casa Lucy
Calle Cespedes #29 e/Maceo y Rubert Lopez
Tel. 43548
$12 single
North of Baracoa to Holguín
The road north of Baracoa is tarmaced all the way, except for a stretch of about 8 km at the beginning which is rough dirt road, ending at Maguana Beach. There are not too many hills for the first 40 km, but there are no obvious towns or villages anywhere on the road to Moa (80 km), so take plenty of water. The last 10-15 km into Moa are very ugly as there are several massive nickel mines which have ruined the landscape, it's quite smelly too. Moa is a gritty mining town, there's not much to see but there are plenty of shops in the town centre to buy food at.
North of Moa is quite empty as far as Sagua de Tánamo (35 km) where there is a dollar shop and probably a few casas particulares. There is a campismo 20 km west of Sagua, past Frank País.
The road from Sagua to Holguín (140 km) is more interesting, you can buy food at Mayarí and Cueto. There is a very long climb about 25 km before Holguín.
Holguín
This is a nice city which is just the right size to be pleasant without being too hassled. I recommend visiting the hill called Loma de la Cruz, and the mechanical musical organ factory, it's pretty amazing that they are still making them!
Casa particular:
Sonia Cacer Bejerano
Miró #181 e/Martí y Luz Caballero
(just off the main square)
Tel. 423296
$15 single
Central Cuba
I can't comment on the section from Holguín to Sancti Spíritus as I travelled this by train. However I have been told that it is quite flat and not very interesting. On the other hand, Camagüey is supposed to be a pretty cool city.
Trinidad
The ride down from Sancti Spíritus to Trinidad is fine but don't underestimate it, it's 90 km from the train station at Guayos and 75 km from S.S. itself. You will almost certainly arrive at Guayos in the middle of the night, and you have the choice of either having a snooze in the very small waiting room, or else leaving and cycling through the night. I took the second choice - an amazing experience, but unlit Cuban roads at night are not for the faint-hearted! You should have a tail wind, around dawn I whizzed past some campesinos at over 50 km/h - they almost fell over in amazement!
Trinidad is a great place, full of cobbled streets and old colonial buildings - and also full of tourists, but still having a life of its own. There is also a good beach at Ancón, 15 km south of the town.
Casa particular:
Casa Nelson
Calle Piro Guinart #228 e/Gustavo Izquierdo y Independencia (close to the bus station)
Tel. 3849
$15 single
Trinidad to Santa Clara
The road from Trinidad northwards over the mountains is spectacular but very steep - the 20 km to Topes de Collantes (alt. 900 m) took me over 2 hours, luckily it was cloudy or I would have melted! Drinks are available at a mirador about 2/3 of the way up. In Topes are a number of health spas where you can have a massage, beauty treatments, thermal baths etc. There is also a pleasant 45-minute hike to some waterfalls with a pool where you can go swimming. It makes a nice day trip from Trinidad, or you can stay in one of the hotels.
In Topes, ignore everyone's advice and follow the road that goes behind the massive 'Kurhotel', signposted to Manicaragua. A few km past Topes the road starts dropping and keeps on dropping for a good 20 km - an excellent descent! The scenery through the mountains is beautiful; then it's a straight 60 km run into Santa Clara, although again it feels further than it looks on the map...
Santa Clara is my favourite city of those that I visited; there's really very little to see other than the Ché Guevara memorial (a very emotive place, well worth visiting) which contains the great man's mortal remains, and the armoured train which Ché's 18 men captured in 1958 against an opposing force of over 400. But this quietness is the main attraction of the place, and you will see few tourists away from the memorial. The atmsophere is that of a real Cuban city.
Casa particular:
Hostal Mary
Calle Julio Jover #62 e/Maceo y Luis Estévez
Santa Clara
(3 blocks north of the main square)
No phone
$15 single
Havana to Bahía Honda
The road through the western suburbs of Havana is interesting enough, crossing bridges and passing places like a strange Indian-looking temple and the brutal Russian Embassy. However once you get out of the city the highway is very boring all the way to Mariel (55 km from Havana) where you can refuel.
The smaller road heading along the north coast to Bahía Honda (100 km from Havana) is much more pleasant, with nice views of the sea over the fields of sugar cane. Bahía has 2 dollar shops and some casas particulares.
From Bahía Honda it's about 100 km to Viñales, passing 3 or 4 campismos along the way.
Viñales
Viñales is in a beautiful valley area, dotted with strange rock outcroppings called 'mogotes'. There are also some slightly tacky tourist caves e.g. the Cueva del Indio 6 km north of town. If your tyres are up to it, there is a dirt track starting at the entrance to the Prehistoric Mural 3 km west of town (which is itself worth a look for its bizzareness) which circles the whole area and comes out at the Cueva del Indio - just follow your nose. You also get a good view of the valley from Hotel Los Jasmines south of town - save yourself a little time by taking the first tarmaced turnoff, at the top of the hill, this deteriorates into a dirt track which leads straight to the hotel after 200 m instead of 2 km.
Viñales to Guane
Instead of heading west via Piñar del Rio, consider taking the smaller road west from Viñales. It is signposted to Moncada - but go past this village as far as Pons, then turn left to Cabeza, and then right to Sumidero after 5 km or so. This will lead you straight to Guane (85 km from Viñales) on a very flat road, through a lovely river valley with lots of wooden bridges and cliffs.
Place to stay:
Campismo El Salto
5 km before Guane (north)
No phone
$5 single
Guane to Maria La Gorda
This is a 95 km run on roads as flat as a witches t*t and with the prevailing winds behind you - piece of cake! There is a dollar store in Sandino but the one in El Cayuco is easier to find. From El Cayuco there is barely a single house until La Bajada, along a road straight through a subtropical forest full of musical bird cries.
At La Bajada, the radar station has rooms (only in Cuba!) for $9 a person with a private bath. However, food might be a problem unless you are prepared to eat dinner at Maria La Gorda and cycle back in the dark. You might be able to persuade a villager to cook for you.
Maria La Gorda is 15 km south of La Bajada. This marvellous beach has a tourist hotel which is relatively cheap ($25 single, $30 double) - if you are single then try and find a traveller to split a double room with you, I did this no problem as my room was one of the few I saw in Cuba with 2 single beds. You should also be able to camp (discreetly) on one of the beaches near the hotel. 
The main problem is food: unless you have brought your own food and/or cooking equipment, you will have to pay for the expensive hotel buffet ($5 breakfast, $13 lunch, $13 dinner) - although I never paid for lunch, just swiping a few slices of bread and cheese from breakfast. You will also have to buy bottled water from the shop ($2!)as there is no fresh water in the rooms. There is excellent scuba diving at $35 a dive. If you are really into the diving then it might be worth pre-booking a 'package' in Havana, which costs around $90 per person per day including full board and 2 dives per day. If you are planning to dive in Cuba, you should be aware that depth gauges are not usually provided and that safety techniques can be a little slack.
I was told that the trip to Cabo San Antonio (the western tip of Cuba) from MLG is very interesting and the beach at the end is beautiful - it is at least a 140-km round trip which is a pretty long day-trip by bike, though maybe not so bad without your panniers... Those with tents may want to try camping at the cape and cycling back the next day - but take plenty of water!
Thanks to Sam Marshall for 2001 updates - why not send him an e-mail?
Here are some links you might find interesting.... I'm not making any particular recommendations, some of them are just from people who have promised to make a 'reciprocal' link to my site!
LINKS
and Brian Hedney's trip accounts, or find out what the weather is like in Havana.
Lonely Planet - Cuba (2004). The 'standard' guidebook, I used the 1996 edition myself and it was useful.
The Rough Guide to Cuba (2003). I haven't read it, but I have heard that this guidebook is very good for those people wanting a more 'cultural' guide.
Buena Vista Social Club. An excellent recording by some amazing old-time Cuban musicians. Try to see the movie as well!
Rough Guide to Cuban Music. I have an earlier edition from 1996 and it's a pretty good introduction to the genre...
Page created February 4, 1999. Last updated May 27, 2003.